The upholstery on the doors of the Volvo was coming off. I mean litteraly disintegrating. The layer of foam between the door panel and the upholstery turned into sticky orange gunk. That needed to be replaced. We removed the door panels, the old upholstery, most of the gunk and replaced it with cowhide I picked up at a local home decor shop. We are team Fred & Wilma after all 🙂
As mentioned earlier, the previous owner had a fender bender. Literally. The front bumper of the car is made out of Tupperware with some metal in it for strength. The plastic part didn’t break. It just bent and bent back afterwards. The shape seemed a bit distorted though, but I figured that was because the metal it was mounted to was bent. The picture shows the metal part with the plastic cover still attached to it.
Replacing the bumper turned out to be more work than expected. Before I could access the bolts that mount the bumper to the chassis of the car I had to remove a cover underneath the car, fixed with quite a number of screws and plastic rivets. On the other hand, getting the metal separated from the plastic was easier than expected. The new bumper turned out to be about 5mm too wide, but that was quickly fixed with an angle grinder.
Unfortunately, the plastic part is still a bit distorted, so it doesn’t completely fit the new metal piece. At least not on the right-hand side of the vehicle. Maybe I can fix that by applying some heat, but that’s something for another day.
Since we’re carbage running as team Fred & Wilma, I figured we needed a soundboard. You know, Fred screaming “Wilmaaaa!”, the distinctive sound of Fred driving off in his car, Wilma laughing, etc. And some of these sounds should be played automatically, for instance when disengaging the handbrake.
I experimented with playing audio directly trough one of the ESP32’s DACs, but for some reason, I could not get the sound quality up to an acceptable level. If you want to take a shot at it: be my guest. You will find some pointers here. I choose a different solution: An external audio decoder board based on the UDA1334A chip. It takes data via I2S and can be bought from Aliexpress, eBay, Banggood, etc.
Here are the most important features:
Voltage regulator, so the board can be powered directly from the car battery (with reverse polarity protection).
Two 12V tolerant digital inputs. These can be used to trigger the playback of a sound if the lights are switched on, the handbrake is disengaged etc.
An analog input. This can be used to connect multiple switches. If every one of these switches has a resistor in series, the software can tell which one is pushed by reading the value of the analog input.
A relay. This may come in handy to power on an external amplifier or to switch on some light effects whenever a sound is being played.
Audio output, of course. In stereo.
ESP8266 MCU. Since the audio decoding is now done by a dedicated chip, there is no need to use the ESP32. The ESP8266 is fast enough. The NodeMCU boards have 4MB of flash memory. 1MB will be used for the software, the rest is available for audio samples.
I have a working proof of concept, I am still working on the software. Currently, the software plays only .WAV files and I would like it to handle .MP3 as well. After all, 3MB of SPIFFS is not a lot if you are using uncompressed audio files.
A few notes on the PCB design:
The NodeMCU dev board appears to be available in two variants. One has a square FTDI chip, the other one has a rectangular one. The footprint used in the design is for the smaller ones with the square FTID chip. The larger one will fit (and the connections are all in the same place), but the electrolytic capacitor is in the way. If you mount the NodeMCU board first, you can mount the capacitor a little bit to the side. As you can see in the picture above, that is what I did, because I didn’t realize the footprint I used was for a differend NodeMCU board than the one I had.
I used a cheap UDA1334A breakout board I got off eBay. It seems to be the same as Adafruit’s “UDA1334 I2S DAC”. The only difference I noticed is the color of the PCB. Both versions should work.
I used the breakout board rather than the chip itself (and some discrete components) in my PCB design to make it easier to assemble.
Just a quick update on the “getting rid of the rust” project. The sills are welded and I replaced one of the wings. I left the welding to a professional by the way. I can stick two pieces of metal together with a welder, but that’s not the same thing 🙂
I decided to replace the front wing with a brand new one. Various manufacturers sell new wings dirt cheap (for like € 40) so it makes no sense to try to repair the old one nor to get one at the local scrapyard. I did have to spray paint it in the right color.
The only thing left to do before it will pass the next inspection is replacing the front bumper (the previous owner had a fender bender) and adjusting the headlights.
It has to bring us from The Netherlands to Ukraine and back.
After a few weeks of searching the web, I found a ’99 Volvo V40 2.0T and bought it. As to be expected from a car that’s both cheap and old, it does indeed need some TLC. Regular maintenance is long overdue, the timing belt needs to be replaced, there is rust all over and a fender bender screwed up the alignment of the headlights. Apart from the maintenance and the timing belt replacement all of these issues would definitely be a problem at the next yearly inspection (which is due February ’20). And then there are some cosmetic issues like the upholstery coming loose/disintegrating, but more on that later.
We also picked a team name: Fred & Wilma. In memory of our cat Pebbles, who died earlier this year at the age of 20.
We decided we’re going to do the Carbage run next year. For those who don’t know: The Carbage run is a 5-day road trip in a car that’s at least 20 years old and is worth € 500 or less.
What does that have to do with making stuff, the topic of this blog?
Probably more than you might think. Apart from the fact that a 20-year-old might need some TLC before I trust it to bring us to Ukraine and back or even pass the yearly inspection, there is the tradition of pimping it up. Most (if not all) contestants will pimp their car with lots of lights, horns and a lot of useless crazy stuff too. There is € 500 to be won in the originality contest. But I’m quite sure most people just pimp their ride because it’s fun. It will definitely lead to some maker projects. Stay tuned!